That *#%! Stuck Patio Screen Door

Posted on July 12, 2011 by KeithFisher

Patio DoorSticking, rubbing, cheap, nasty, impossible patio screen door! Well, the door takes a beating, and most patio screen doors are not the highest quality.  But often there is a fix.

Most sliding patio screen doors can be unstuck with a little maintenance.  First, look at the lower track.  Clean it with detergent and water or even a little solvent on a rag.  If the track is bent or squashed, straighten it with smooth pliers and file.

Find the rollers at the bottom of the door.  Above or on the side of the rollers, you will see an adjustment screw. Use this to raise the door so it runs on the rollers rather than rubbing on the frame.  You may need to lower another set of rollers located above the door, allowing the door to rise within the frame.  Lubricate the rollers with silicone or a light lubricant like WD-40; don’t use other lubricants that will attract dirt.

If the door still does not operate smoothly, you may need to replace the plastic rollers in the base of the door.  Or you could switch the top rollers (normally, these show little wear) with the worn bottom rollers.

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Is Your Roof Worn Out?

Posted on July 6, 2011 by KeithFisher

RoofShould you care about wear and tear to your roof?  You betcha.  A worn roof at the end of its life span is prone to leaks.  You don’t want to deal with damage cause by roof leaks, and you don’t want to worry about mold in your home.  Plan for that roof replacement.

In most cases, an asphalt shingle roof lasts about 20 years.  The life span depends on the roof’s original quality and the amount of sun exposure.  Sunlight breaks down the asphalt base of the shingles and eventually causes shrinkage, curling, granular loss and potential leaks.

Take a look at the illustration; it shows what to look for.  you can check your roof from the ground with binoculars or work from the edge of the roof.  Check the sunny side – that’s where you will find the most wear.

You can also note the spacing or shrinkage between shingle tabs.  Newer roofs will have a tight, clean space about 1/4″ inch wide between shingles.  Older roofs will have a gap that increases with age up to about 3/4″ inch when the roof is worn out.  Contact a professional if you suspect your roof is worn.

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Inside Info on an Outdoor Fixture

Posted on June 28, 2011 by KeithFisher

Hose FixtureHere’s a bit of fix-it trivia for you: the exterior faucet to which you connect lawn hoses is called a hose bib.  You can toss out this technical term to impress friends and neighbors, right? Whatever you call it, keep these tips in mid to help things run smoothly.

For cold climates, locate the interior valve before winter sets in so you can turn the water off.  Remove any hose attached to the bib, then open the exterior valve.  This allows water to drain from the piping so it can’t freeze and break a pipe.

For both warm and cold climates, some type of vacuum breaker should be connected to the hose bib.  It might be a round brass fitting attached to the threaded connection.  In newer hose bibs, the vacuum breaker is built in; look for a large cap on the top of the vavle.

Why does your hose bib need a vacuum breaker? It prevents dirty water from flowing backward into your drinking water system.  If there’s low pressure in your home’s system, water can be drawn indoors from a hose lying in a dog dish or connected to a garden chemical sprayer – yuck! Such a low water pressure could occur,  for example, when a fire department’s pumper draws water from elsewhere in the municipal system, creating low (negative) pressure all down the line.

If there are ever ANY questions about maintaining your home, feel free to call me directly.  We are after-all, “Your property consultants for life”.

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Reviving a “Dead” Disposal

Posted on April 26, 2011 by KeithFisher

Dead garbage disposal? Usually, it’s easy to bring this gadget back to life.  Take a look a the illustration and follow these simple steps.

How to Fix Garbage Disposal

Does the disposal “hum” when the switch is on? If not, most likely the problem is a trippedoverload in the disposal.  Turn the wall switch off.  Look under the disposal and locate the reset switch – little button recessed within a hole toward the side of the housing.  Push the button, and the disposal should at least hum when you hit the wall switch.  It may also come up to speed.

If the disposal hums but the blades don’t spin, you can use a service wrench to loosen up the motor.

You’ll probably find the disposal’s service wrench stored in a small plastic sleeve below the sink.  It will look like a hex wrench with two angled ends.  If you can’t find your wrench, purchase one (they’re inexpensive) at the hardware store.

With the power off (no hum), place the small hex wrench in the center hole at the bottom of the disposal.  Twist the wrench back and forth to free the impellers.  Remove the wrench and hit the switch – yeah!

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